I only had 10 minutes to skimboard today. But I saw this little flat spot off to the side, where the waves were receding slowly. It looked perfect.
First one or two were a bit slow. But then I started to pick it up again. Pretty soon I was running compulsively to the next wave, just like when I was 22 when I really learned.
Then I had a great run. Hit the crash of the wave as best as I’ve ever done it. Didn’t wipe out. Just a great, energizing feeling.
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Bryan lives somewhere at the intersection of faith, fatherhood, and futurism and writes about tech, books, Christianity, gratitude, and whatever’s on his mind. If you liked reading, perhaps you’ll also like subscribing: